Courtney and her lovely sister were over in Paris a while ago and they persuaded me to expand my horizon a little bit and make the journey with them to Porte de Clignancourt and the famed Marché de St Ouen, otherwise known as les Puces (the Fleas or Flea Market).
I don’t think I had visited this market in 10 years but I have totally fallen back in love with this place. Yes, it is not what it used to be. Yes, things are not dirt cheap and it is hard to find a real bargain. BUT, I love the mazes of little streets full of fabulous things and the sellers who often have a story to tell about each of their wares. I headed back there today and discovered yet another part of the market that I had no idea existed!
Note: This is not a great day out with a hoard of small kids… It is perfect if your child is small enough to sit in a stroller or big enough to enjoy looking at things, but not touching everything. If you are in Paris though and have some time on your own for a bit of a stroll, the “Puces” is a lot of fun. Check out the description of how to get there which Jordan at Oh Happy Day put together — it’s super helpful.
Comments (7)
I LOVED going to this market with you. I would be in big, deep trouble if I lived in Paris and could visit this market regularly!!!
I love les puces de St Ouen and don’t go there as often as I’d like to. It true that it’s hard to find real bargains but there are some if you look deep enough. Have you ever been to La Chope des Puces? It’s one of the temples of gipsy jazz music in Paris. Such a great place to go for a beer and a rest after having spent hours looking at furniture. Check it out!
I was in Paris this weekend and paid a visit to the fleamarket in Vanves -I couldn’t believe how cheap it was compared to the South of France. It may not be as big or as trendy as other Parisian markets but if you’re looking for a “real” flea, with only a few expensive professionals, go and have a look for yourself. I bought some gorgeous hand-dyed (neon pink!, grey, black) vintage linen, whiwh would have cost a fortune in Uzès or Montpellier.
I live 15 minutes from the fle market – porte de montmartre side (no metro). I have been going with my 2-year-old since he was born. and sometimes he walks and when it gets too crowded, he is on my back. but he LOVES it. there are also a few good places to eat or get a drink (with a kid). a pretty good brasserie fare can be had at the entrance of the marché paul bert. if you are not looking for cheap streetwear clothing or a reggae cd, i would avoid walking on rue henri fabre. very crowded and not that much fun and also prime pickpocketing area for tourists. don’t hesitate to get lost in the little alley ways. most important thing in enjoying the puces is going into the markets, staying on the street is about 10% of the experience. have fun!
I forgot to add that you can find some good deals, and you have to negotiate… we have done pretty well on unique furniture there (a chair, a coffee table, a buffet). of course the common buyer now is the American who is looking for a gorgeous farmstyle buffet for their house and the prices of those have risen ridiculously.
and yes vanves is more like the puces 30 years ago. but not as charming a place to visit.
oh what a treasure trove! how I would LOVE to visit that! a photographers dream!
Oh I love these markets, I could spend days there and decorate 20 houses in my imagination. Let’s go together soon! xxx